Kaskasepakte 2006

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Kaskasapakte is located in the northern part of the Kebnekaise massif and is considered one of the more difficultmountains to climb in Sweden. This is because there is no “easy” way up, but all routes require some level of climbing. There are two paths to choose from if you do not want really challenging clean climbing, and these two are the southwest ridge, or the route via Kaskasatjåkka. We had chosen to take the second option and the first down, which would prove to be a bad idea.

The first day consisted of walking from Nikkaluokta to Tarfala where we camped a bit away from the cottages there. The rest of the evening was devoted to ensure that we would get everything with us and that all the equipment was in shape. The next day it was up as soon as the sun had started to rise, and after a customary porridge breakfast we headed towards Kaskasatjåkka. This time we choose to go through the south-east ridge, which subsequently was perhaps not so smart because it was a time consuming way, even if it was a fun one.

Once on the summit, it was quick reaching the base to Kaskasapakte, and it felt like we had good flow. It was here somewhere between the summit of Kaskasatjåkka and the base of Kaskasapakte as we saw: No pot for the food! But shame on him who gives up, we decided that food shortages were not a sufficient reason to turn back, we still had plenty of water. The road to the summit went as smoothly as it can go, given that it was a bit more technical this bit and we  were three people on a rope, but no major problems. It started to get a little chilly. Once up on the summit, the  clouds had started coming in and we were suddenly inside a large cloud, but that was a problem for later, now it  was time to celebrate by sharing a bottle of light beer as Stefan had persisted in dragging up, and that didn’t  seem like such a bad idea all of a sudden.

It was not a long pause at the summit, it was getting late and the visibility was not very encouraging, so we went down the southwest ridge. The first piece here was easy and required no real climbing, which was lucky as it was getting dark. However, it didn’t take very long before we got to the first cliff. Luckily we found an existing anchor we could use. When all come down and we started to pull through the rope it got stuck of course! Victor took on the task of climbing back up again to try to dislodge it, what had happened was that the knot was still at
the end of the rope. Easy to make mistakes when we were on the mountain all day without food, and everyone began to be really exhausted and frozen.

When we got to the next precipice, it was completely dark and started climbing in the light of headlamps. No one rushed forward to secure now. It meant sitting still and shaking from cold while trying to be 100% focused on the person who climbed and, above all try to not fall asleep, which was extremely hard after all the hours spent on the mountain, plus food and water shortages. Luckily the sun started to rise when we started the most difficult part of the climbing. The light and warmth gave us new energy to continue. When we were down from the precipice, we saw an amazing sight! We were above the clouds and the sunrise was amazing. Unbelievably beautiful! As an added bonus, it was one of us who figured out that we actually had some Wasa sandwiches at the bottom of our backpack. This small energy boost, plus we got a hold of more water made us at much better mood though still very exhausted, but we could take us down the last stretch of the mountain and back to the tent. After about 26 hours on the mountain we made some food and all fell asleep very quickly. Only thing remaining was to pack up everything and walk back to Nikkaluokta where we slept before we drove back home to Umeå again.

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Kebnekaise 2006

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Kebnekaise is Sweden’s highest mountain and consists of two peaks, the northern and southern peak. Northern peak is 2097m above sea level and summer 2005 the southern peak was 2104 meters above sea level but as the southern peak consists of a glacier it changes constantly because the height of glacial growth and melting.

In early June we went to Nikkaluokta for a 10 day trek in the area. We began our walk towards Kebnekaise Mountain Lodge where we spent our first night. The tour then moved to Kebnekaise peaks through Singivaggi, so we came up against Kebnekaise from behind. When we at the National Day came up on Kebnekaise it was already evening but very nice weather and we decided to spend the night in the old lodge that was up there. The next day we walked over the ridge to the North summit, despite great foggy weather and very limited visibility. Because the weather was not very good, we decided to spend another night in the lodge for the next day to take the eastern path down which was a bit tricky because of all the snow. We went down to the Kebnekaise Mountain Station for the purpose of drying clothes and shoes, and then we camped at a distance from the mountain station. We decided that the next day we  would go to Tarfalla lodge to try to climb Kaskasatjåkka (2076m) and Kaskasapakte. On the way to the cabin it began to blow very violently and we were subsequently told that there had been hurricane force winds and highest recorded  was 43 meters per second, no wonder we had to sit down and hold a rock once. The following day we sat the plan into action and came up on Kaskasatjåkka but had to cancel the ascent of Kaskasapakte as we didn’t have nearly enough  equipment with us for all the snow. We stayed another night in the Tarfala lodge before we once again went past  Kebnekaise Mountain Station. From here we ascended Tolpagorni via the eastern route, so we came up in the “bowl”  and from there it was an easier scramble up to the top. The day after we went back to Nikkaluokta and took the car back home.

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Akka 2007

akkaAt the end of March, we sat in the car and drove north, the target this time was the Mount Akka. Akka is located in Great Falls National Park and is the mountain that has a highest height difference from foot to peak in Sweden, nearly 1500 m and 2016 m high. The name Akka is Sami and I come from the name of the Sami goddess who stood for the wisdom and beauty in this world.

We only had 4 days to climb the mountain, so we needed a good flow and luck with the weather. The first day skied we over the lake and when we arrived, we got an offer that we could spend the night in the woodshed at the Akka cabin, it was a very large woodshed with plenty of room without wood, so this was a good alternative to setting up up the tent late in the evening. Day two consisted of getting up as far as possible on the mountain because we came away pretty late so we focused on finding a good campsite for the summit attack the day after. Unfortunately the weather were getting worse the longer the day went, and when we came up to where we would camp out, the wind was very strong. So it was to quickly set up the tent and sleep and hope for a better day the next day.

Day 3 dawned and we woke to a very windy and white weather. Visibility was also very poor, so we decided to wait in the tent a few hours and hope for better weather. Unfortunately it did not happen much with the weather and because we didn’t have any extra days, we packed our things and began to ski down again. It had now started to get very sloppy because we were out late in the season. The trail across the lake was partially almost completely under water and we quickly discovered that this was probably the last week that it could be crosses dry-shod and reasonably safe. After we sat in the car and started driving home, we saw over Akka how it started to clear up and now looked really good. Typical. But that was probably not the last we saw of Akka.

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